Over 30? stop looking older than you are
Turn back time: Thirty isn’t too young to start using heavy-duty prescription retinoids, especially the superhero of the bunch, tretinoin. It exfoliates cells to reveal smoother skin and also prevents sagging. Apply a pea-size amount to clean skin a couple of nights a week at first (more than that can cause redness and irritation).
If you’ve been a maximum sun offender, a small dose of Botox — yes, even at 30 — may be in order. when used in conservative amount, it may keep “dynamic” wrinkles (lines that show up only when you frown or smile) from turning into “static” wrinkles (which hang around no matter what your expression). “I’ll see some 30-year-old patients for Botox two or three times a year,” Giles says.
“It doesn’t take much to make a big difference.” A chest full of brown spots Consider these sun spots souvenirs from all those irresponsible spring breaks spent sitting around the pool sans sunscreen. Like wrinkles, they begin making an appearance when you hit the big 3-0. Preemptive strike: Daily dedicated use of broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher prevents sun spots from forming and keeps existing ones from becoming darker. Turn back time: Studies show that retinoids, those all-powerful skin rejuvenators, can zap sun spots. “Your skin regimen for your face can be modified for your chest, which is more sensitive,” says Doris Day, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. “Try applying an OTC retinol product with a moisturizer to clean skin a few nights a week.” “I’ve had great success removing brown spots with the new AcuTip laser and the nd:YAG laser,” says Beverly Hills dermatologist Peter Kopelson, M.D. Laser treatments can set you back $500 to $2,000, “but if you address these brown spots now, at age 30, you’re likely to have fewer issues later on if you continue to wear sunscreen and stay out of the sun,” says Kopelson. Intense pulsed light (IPL) therapy can also lift sun-damage spots from the chest or face. It’s an in-office treatment that delivers intense blasts of broadband light therapy deep into the epidermis to kill pigmented cells, which then slough off after a week or two. It’s slightly less expensive than lasers (around $500 per treatment), but several sessions may be required to see maximum results. Thinning hair It can be downright freaky when you start seeing clumps of hair swimming around your shower drain and some thinning (thinning!) around your temples. this is largely due to the 30-something hormonal shift, which is genetically determined, but big-time thinning can be triggered by stress, a vitamin deficiency, an excess of mercury, or giving birth (moms experience temporary hair loss about two months after popping out a baby as their hormones readjust). More serious causes include hypothyroidism, which often manifests itself in your thirties, and polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS), which is most often seen in women ages 30 to 40. Preemptive strike: Eat a well-balanced diet that’s rich in B vitamins, protein, and omega-3 fatty acids, and keep mercury levels in check by sticking to low-mercury fish like tilapia and herring, and eating it just twice a week. Take a daily multivitamin with hair-and nail-strengthening biotin and zinc, Day says. Turn back time: if the root cause of hair loss is a thyroid condition, a regular dose of synthetic hormones like Synthroid, prescribed by an endocrinologist, can put your body back on track. For PCOS sufferers, switching to a low-glycemic (low sugar, low carbohydrate) diet can reduce overall body fat and reset your blood insulin levels. if it doesn’t, your doctor may prescribe Metformin, a drug for diabetics that controls blood-sugar levels. If your doctor rules out a thyroid condition and PCOS, she may recommend a prescription drug called Aldactone (the generic name is spironolactone). “It’s a testosterone inhibitor that works like a key in a lock; it takes up space that extra testosterone would,” Cwynar says. Stray hairs It’s a raw deal that when your hair starts to fall out of your head, it starts to pop up in less-than-ideal places, like your chin, nipples, and abdomen. the reason: the ratio of androgens (male hormones) to estrogen may change in your thirties, which can turn a soft, fine hair into a (gasp!) whisker.
Preemptive strike: hate to be the bearer of bad news, but there’s not much you can do. Turn back time: Traditional hair-removal methods like tweezing, waxing, and electrolysis work, and laser treatments have proved to be highly effective too. “There’s also a prescription cream called Vaniqa that can help prevent hair from regrowing, with varying degrees of success,” Day says. Acne You may associate zits with first dates and SATs, “but it’s a myth that acne ends in your teens,” says Heidi Waldorf, M.D., director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. “In fact, lots of people see it for the first time at 30.” the causes? a natural decline in estrogen levels, switching birth-control pills (which can create a temporary hormonal imbalance), and stress. the adult responsibilities of your thirties (a big-shot job, a kid, or both) may make cortisol levels spike, resulting in a case of adolescent-like acne. Preemptive strike: Daily cleansing and weekly exfoliation will help keep your pores clear and fend off acne. Waldorf recommends the Neutrogena Wave ($13, at drugstores), a device that uses a salicylic acid cleaning pad to remove dead skin cells. if exfoliating seems tedious or if your skin is very oily, you can simply apply a salicylic acid product daily (try Murad Anti-Aging Acne & Wrinkle Reducer, $58, sephora.com, or Philosophy Oil-Free Acne Treatment Gel, $22, sephora.com). “These exfoliate the skin and penetrate pores to disrupt oil production,” Hirsch says. Turn back time: Wrinkle-fighting retinoids also have a way with pimples. if prescription-strength products are too strong for your sensitive skin (or your wallet), try Olay Total Effects with Pro-Retinol ($23, drugstore.com), which is gentle and nearly as effective. Apply it at night to clean skin. Ask your dermatologist about in-office peels (a custom blend of peeling agents like salicylic acid or alpha-hydroxy acid that’s left on the skin for several minutes, which may result in peeling a few days later). both are proven zit erasers. Red bumps around your nose and mouth Notice a constellation of tiny, painless red bumps on the lower half of your face? Chances are, you’ve got a case of perioral dermatitis, which is most common among women in their thirties. Preemptive strike: Quit touching your face! “While the cause of perioral dermatitis is unknown, picking and prodding can trigger it by introducing all sorts of bacteria to your skin,” Giles says. Turn back time: “Nothing is available over the counter to treat this,” Giles says. “If you notice these tiny bumps, and they don’t appear to be acne-related, see a dermatologist, who will likely prescribe an antibiotic in a pill or lotion form to reduce inflammation.” Brown spots on your face Big blotchy patches on the upper lip, cheeks, and forehead are called melasma. while typically considered one of those annoying estrogen-related pregnancy symptoms, they can occur in 30-something women who have never been preggers. “Sometimes oral contraceptives can cause these patches, but sometimes they pop up for no particular reason at all, and even just a few minutes in the sun makes them worse,” Day says. Preemptive strike: according to Day, nothing can prevent melasma entirely, but slathering on Neutrogena’s new Spectrum+ Sunblock Lotion SPF 55 ($12, at drugstores), which protects skin from UVA and UVB rays, as well as certain wavelengths of infrared light, can stop patches from getting darker. “The latest research indicates that infrared rays and heat play a role, and traditional sunscreen doesn’t shield the skin from them.” Turn back time: Melasma can be tough to treat, but light chemical peels such as the Vi peel, a combination of ingredients like salicylic acid, retinoic acid, and vitamins, can be effective in lifting the pigment from your skin. Don’t have the bucks (or the pain threshold) for a peel? “Using a topical lightening cream with kojic acid or hydroquinone can lessen the appearance of melasma,” Kopelson says. Apply SkinCeuticals Pigment Regulator ($85, skinceuticals.com) every other night, building up to every night. © 2010 Rodale inc. All rights reserved. Over 30? Stop looking older than you are